裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)就是將衣料分(fen)(fen)割成(cheng)各種(zhong)形(xing)態衣片(pian)的工藝。有批量裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(又稱工業裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian))和(he)單(dan)件裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)之分(fen)(fen)。

　　批量裁剪

　　按照服(fu)(fu)裝號(hao)(hao)型系列(lie)制(zhi)作樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)進行多(duo)疊(die)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。是(shi)服(fu)(fu)裝工業(ye)生產(chan)(chan)中的(de)(de)(de)主要裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)形(xing)式。主要步驟為(wei)：①材(cai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)檢驗。主要是(shi)對衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)伸(shen)縮率、色牢度(du)(du)(du)(du)、耐熱度(du)(du)(du)(du)的(de)(de)(de)理化檢驗，檢查疵點，測幅寬，整(zheng)理緯(wei)斜以(yi)(yi)(yi)及熱預縮等(deng)。②制(zhi)定規格(ge)和(he)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)。根據(ju)服(fu)(fu)裝款式、規格(ge)、衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)性能和(he)縫(feng)制(zhi)工藝要求(qiu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙板(ban)(ban)制(zhi)成劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)，并制(zhi)定規格(ge)搭配(pei)等(deng)。③排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)各(ge)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)排(pai)列(lie)在(zai)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)上或(huo)與衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)幅寬相同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)紙上，以(yi)(yi)(yi)求(qiu)最大(da)限度(du)(du)(du)(du)地提(ti)高衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)率。④劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)。按排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)確定的(de)(de)(de)格(ge)式，依樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)劃(hua)出衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)輪廓(kuo)和(he)記(ji)號(hao)(hao)。批量(liang)大(da)的(de)(de)(de)產(chan)(chan)品通(tong)(tong)常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)漏花(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(將(jiang)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)線路鉆(zhan)成等(deng)距(ju)連續針孔的(de)(de)(de)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban))，以(yi)(yi)(yi)刷(shua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)粉末刷(shua)入孔內使(shi)(shi)之漏下顯形(xing))取(qu)代劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)。20世(shi)紀60年代出現用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于服(fu)(fu)裝設計的(de)(de)(de)計算機(ji)輔助設計系統(CAD)，按實樣(yang)(yang)(yang)或(huo)比例繪出排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)圖的(de)(de)(de)新(xin)技術(shu)。⑤鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)。按排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)所需長(chang)度(du)(du)(du)(du)、幅寬、數量(liang)，將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)多(duo)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)疊(die)鋪(pu)(pu)在(zai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)臺上。50年代除手工鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)外，采(cai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手推車(che)或(huo)往返(fan)式電動(dong)(dong)(dong)鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)操作。80年代應用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)微電腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)自動(dong)(dong)(dong)鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)，能自動(dong)(dong)(dong)進行正、反面(mian)(mian)交叉或(huo)單面(mian)(mian)鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)，自動(dong)(dong)(dong)理邊、記(ji)數等(deng)。⑥開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)。按劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)線路將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)成衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)。通(tong)(tong)常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)立(li)式電剪(jian)(jian)刀(見(jian)日用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)五金(jin))，最高開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)(du)(du)(du)可達(da)160mm，薄(bo)型織物(wu)約200層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)。此外還(huan)有(you)各(ge)種輔助裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)設備，如帶式裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(ji)(又(you)稱環形(xing)刀裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)機(ji))、沖裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)等(deng)。60年代末出現使(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)電腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)自動(dong)(dong)(dong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)機(ji)(CAM)。⑦分包(bao)。將(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)好的(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)按不同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)規格(ge)、顏色歸(gui)類，分成若干包(bao)。⑧編號(hao)(hao)。將(jiang)一(yi)件(包(bao))服(fu)(fu)裝的(de)(de)(de)各(ge)組合(he)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)編成同(tong)一(yi)個順(shun)序號(hao)(hao)。有(you)以(yi)(yi)(yi)包(bao)編號(hao)(hao)或(huo)以(yi)(yi)(yi)件編號(hao)(hao)兩種。襯衫、睡(shui)衣(yi)(yi)等(deng)產(chan)(chan)品通(tong)(tong)常以(yi)(yi)(yi)一(yi)匹同(tong)色原料(liao)(liao)(liao)按序編號(hao)(hao)，對易產(chan)(chan)生色差(cha)的(de)(de)(de)采(cai)取(qu)分層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)以(yi)(yi)(yi)件編號(hao)(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)自動(dong)(dong)(dong)號(hao)(hao)碼(ma)機(ji)打印。⑨扎包(bao)。將(jiang)產(chan)(chan)品的(de)(de)(de)組合(he)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)按規定的(de)(de)(de)搭配(pei)要求(qiu)包(bao)扎在(zai)一(yi)起，并在(zai)包(bao)外注明標號(hao)(hao)，掛上標簽。在(zai)服(fu)(fu)裝加工廠(chang)給客(ke)戶做大(da)貨時就(jiu)會用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)批量(liang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)方法進行。

　　單件裁剪

　　對(dui)(dui)合體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)要(yao)求較高(gao)或(huo)特殊體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)型(xing)的(de)(de)(de)定制服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加工(gong)(gong)、樣品等(deng)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。根(gen)據(ju)(ju)穿著對(dui)(dui)象(xiang)的(de)(de)(de)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)型(xing)或(huo)樣品測取各種裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)數(shu)據(ju)(ju)。上(shang)衣(yi)(yi)主要(yao)測量部位(wei)(wei)有衣(yi)(yi)長(chang)、胸圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、肩寬、袖長(chang)、領圍(wei)(wei)(wei)。緊身式女裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)還(huan)需增測腰圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、乳(ru)高(gao)、乳(ru)距(ju)、前后(hou)(hou)腰節長(chang)度(du)等(deng)。褲的(de)(de)(de)主要(yao)測量部位(wei)(wei)有褲長(chang)、腰圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、上(shang)襠(dang)長(chang)。單件裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)主要(yao)有 5種。①比(bi)例法(fa)(fa)：即胸度(du)法(fa)(fa)或(huo)臀(tun)度(du)法(fa)(fa)。上(shang)衣(yi)(yi)以人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)胸圍(wei)(wei)(wei)為(wei)基礎(chu)(chu)，下(xia)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)以人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)為(wei)基礎(chu)(chu)，對(dui)(dui)其他部位(wei)(wei)尺寸(cun)(cun)根(gen)據(ju)(ju)胸圍(wei)(wei)(wei)或(huo)臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)比(bi)例分配(pei)。②原(yuan)型(xing)法(fa)(fa)：又(you)稱(cheng)基型(xing)法(fa)(fa)。依測量人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)(de)尺寸(cun)(cun)為(wei)基準，繪制模具式衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)原(yuan)型(xing)，然后(hou)(hou)在原(yuan)型(xing)基礎(chu)(chu)上(shang)按款式特點作局部調整(zheng)，再進(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。③定寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)(fa)：用文(wen)字或(huo)圖(tu)形(xing)將各部位(wei)(wei)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)所需數(shu)據(ju)(ju)全部標出，然后(hou)(hou)按標出的(de)(de)(de)尺寸(cun)(cun)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。④短寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)(fa)：對(dui)(dui)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)各部位(wei)(wei)盡可能進(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)測量，然后(hou)(hou)按取得的(de)(de)(de)數(shu)據(ju)(ju)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。⑤立體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)法(fa)(fa)：在人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)模型(xing)或(huo)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)上(shang)直接塑造服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)款式，并(bing)做好(hao)各種標記(ji)，是將設計造型(xing)和裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)融為(wei)一體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)。縫制前還(huan)需復原(yuan)為(wei)平面，作必要(yao)的(de)(de)(de)修正或(huo)復制成樣板。常用于(yu)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)某些立體(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)感強(qiang)，造型(xing)難度(du)高(gao)，衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)柔軟，具懸(xuan)垂特性的(de)(de)(de)女式時裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加工(gong)(gong)廠給客戶打版時就會用單件裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)。